MILAN, Italy (CNN) -- With his fall/winter collection, American Narciso Rodriguez is fast becoming Milan's man of the moment. He gives his designs rich colors and softer, easier silhouettes.

"I love the fuller proportion on the bottom, with a smaller proportion on the top, as well as a large proportion with a large proportion," he says. "I just think it looks fresh to me now, and I really enjoy doing it."

The designer says he's using lots of soft cashmere and sticking with deep shades of color.

"Deep greens and all types of moss, burgundies, grays -- somber colors that are lifted by the play of sequins again, which I love to do."

Rodriguez says a third of his collection is knitwear.

"Even the fabrics themselves, the cashmeres all have Lycra and stretch. There's an ease that has the feeling of knitwear."

His shoes are both low and high-heeled and he covers them to match the clothes.

"We did matching cashmere Birkenstock shoes; they're just the ultimate luxury."

CNN Style Correspondent Elsa Klensch contributed to this report

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