Finding the Funky Side of North Georgia

February 26, 1997

(CNN) -- Just as its namesake is a gem of ancient history, so Athens, Georgia is the quintessential college town, with charming streets, classic collegiate eateries, and a music scene of almost mythical proportions.

Athens was named for its Greek counterpart, as a center of learning. The town has grown up alongside the University of Georgia, a sprawling campus of white columns and red brick, traversed by almost 30,000 backpack-toting students a year.

Chartered in 1785, UGA was the nation's first state university. Its founders chose this bucolic site, about 70 miles northeast of Atlanta, to keep budding minds isolated from the temptations of urban life. Since the university was established in 1801, the town has developed plenty of its own distractions from intellectual pursuits.

Athens Chow

Athens offers plenty of cheap gastronomic diversions that satisfy not only tight student budgets, but demanding taste-buds as well. The compact, pedestrian-friendly town makes it easy to sample gargantuan burritos at the popular Taco Stand, then stroll (or roll) to The Grill, a classic 24-hour diner famed for its velvety-rich milkshakes and Southern delicacies such as deep-fried okra.

The Grit is another hip eatery that lets you fill up without emptying your pockets. It offers tempting vegetarian fare that even the most devout carnivores come to crave. Athens' greatest culinary bargain may well be Hodgson's Pharmacy, which scoops out premium ice cream for just 25 cents a cone.

Weaver D's soul food has earned a reputation not only for its fried chicken and peach cobbler, but as the inspiration for the title of R.E.M.'s 1992 album "Automatic for the People." Restaurant owner Dexter Weaver assures customers that satisfaction from his savory fare is "automatic." At about five-bucks for a solid, home-style meal, Weaver D's keeps 'em coming back for more.

Athens Rock

Athens almost single-handedly propelled college rock from a static-ridden sliver on the low end of the radio dial to a worldwide commercial monster. Popular bands such as R.E.M. and The B-52s started in Athens, stealing the golden egg of southern rock from fellow Georgians, the Allman Brothers, and hatching a whole new bird. The Method Actors, Pylon, Love Tractor and Guadalcanal Diary helped the Athens music scene soar in the 1980s.

R.E.M. played some of its earliest shows in an abandoned church on Oconee Street, and later performed regularly at the 40 Watt Club. The club's star has risen along with that of the introspective quartet; The 40 Watt now occupies a sprawling venue on West Washington Avenue, with its cutting-edge, smoke-filled charm no worse for wear.

Locals such as Vic Chesnutt, Magnapop and Buzz Hungry (featuring Sugar bassist David Barbe) continue the Athens rock tradition, with loyal followings well beyond the borders of this small college town.

For another take on Athens music, check out the High Hat Blues Club, which serves up an eclectic mix of rock, jazz and bluegrass, six nights a week.

Outdoor Athens

Athens offers a lot more than a wide variety of Gen-X bars and arty three-chord college bands. Inviting nature trails and picnic areas along the Oconee River and in the Oconee National Forest provide a welcome respite from the in-town bustle.

The moderate climate allows for outdoor activities almost year-round. From late February through May, a spectacular display of blooming dogwoods, forsythia, redbuds and azaleas adorn the region.

The State Botanical Garden is another treat for horticultural enthusiasts. Its "International Garden" keeps alive the spirit of the 1996 Olympic Games in Atlanta.

Historic Athens

Athens' most interesting history lessons don't come from lecture halls. Georgia's "Classic City" is dotted with historic homes and a wealth of local myths.

The Taylor-Grady House is one of the oldest Greek-Revival homes in Athens. Among its anachronistic charms is a "petticoat table" with a mirror underneath, that allowed belles to make sure they weren't indecently revealing any ankle before they went out in public. A self-guided tour is free. Guided tours are available for $2.50 a person. Bare ankles are permissible.

Many historic homes on Milledge Avenue now sport Greek letters. The Alpha Gamma Delta sorority occupies what is known as the "wedding cake" house. As legend has it, the house was a gift from a groom to his bride.

The double-barreled cannon is another Athens landmark. According to local folklore, the civil war behemoth backfired, decapitating its inventor. Other versions of the tale are less graphic; Depending on whom you ask, the accident killed a cow or knocked down a chimney.

Art lovers can check out the spiffy new Georgia Museum of Art, on the campus of the University of Georgia. Exhibitions include "20th Century Watercolors: From Kandinsky to Wyeth" (through March 23, 1997) and "Women Crossing Barriers" (March 3-17, 1997), a collection of works from notable 20th century female artists , in honor of Women's History Month.

Athens, Georgia 37 sec./1.7 M QuickTime movie

Weather: Athens, Georgia
City Guides and Maps: Athens, Georgia

Related sites:

Athens Background Information

University of Georgia

Flagpole Guide to Athens Eating

Flagpole Guide to Athens

Georgia Museum of Art

Vic Chesnutt Fan Page

R.E.M. Official Homepage

The B-52s

Flagpole Guide to Athens Music Scene